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In Search of the Wild West: Arizona, California, and Colorado, 2023-2024
Averaging 400 highway miles per day, in May 2023 we crossed the U.S. from the NYC area to Orange County, CA in our van Morgan in seven days' driving time. Whisking along divided interstate roads and across countless bridges and proceeding over mountain passes and through long tunnels, it's hard to imagine that back in the mid-1800s that same overland trip in a wagon train took up to 6 months to complete!
We traveled from coast to coast again in May 2024, this time passing through the tunnel that marks the Cumberland Gap, a notch in the Appalachian Mountains that 18th-century frontiersman Daniel Boone established as a gateway for settlement beyond the original colonies. When Thomas Jefferson commissioned Meriwether Lewis and William Clark to explore the newly-acquired Louisiana Purchase in 1803, the eyes of the nation turned further westward to the prospects of the vast uncharted territories beyond the Mississippi River that until then were known only to Native Americans, missionaries, and trappers. Whether spurred by religious conviction, word of arable land, or the allure of the Gold Rush, pioneers by the hundreds of thousands would soon fan out across the plains and over the mountains on rutted wagon trails and, later, stagecoach lines, these hopeful but haggard travelers discounting comfort for mere survival.
The Homestead Act of 1863 institutionalized this great migration, for it ceded 160 acres of land to anyone who could cough up $2 and maintain their plot for five consecutive years. The completion of the Transcontinental Railway in 1869 opened a new era of cross-country transport and trade. Soon the first masonry dams were built to support agriculture and provide power to a surging population. By this time, the Indian Wars were over and the Industrial Revolution had transformed the country. The advent of the automobile was at hand and before long tourists would have access to remote sites their forebears had settled.
Perhaps no one recognized the passing of the pioneer era more keenly than President Teddy Roosevelt, who reveled in a cowboy lifestyle on his ranch in Dakota Territory and fought to preserve the rugged landscapes of the West for future generations: "The farther one gets into the wilderness," he wrote, " the greater is the attraction of its lonely freedom."
In our travels we continue to seek out vestiges of our nation's pioneering heritage. Many roads in the Great Plains follow the contours of old homesteads, a checkerboard effect that is familiar to those who favor window seats in flights out west. Down on the ground, old cabins and outbuildings that homesteaders built from hand-hewn wood can still be spotted in the field. Boom-and-bust old mining towns have preserved their historic districts. Folks still wear cowboy hats and not just for fashion. Horses remain a bedrock of life in the countryside. The cowboy ethic plays out in the rodeos that draw crowds from far and wide. And let's not forget the donkeys, those stalwart animals who were prized by pioneers!
We hope you'll enjoy these photos of our some of our favorite Old West sites from 2023-24!

Roadside sign near Colorado Springs, CO (May 2024)

First came the missionaries. Mission Santa Barbara, CA (Jan. 2024)

Mission San Juan Capistrano, CA (Oct. 2023)

Cumberland Gap, elevation 1,640', near the tripoint of KY, VI, and TN (May 2024)

First gateway to the West: Daniel Boone blazed a trail through the Cumberland Gap in 1775

4,600 feet long and replacing an old section of U.S. Route 25E, the Cumberland Gap Tunnel was only completed in 1996

Gen. George Rogers Clark' s Expedition of 1778, one the Dafford Floodwall Murals in Paducah, KY (1996-2022) that tell the history of this Ohio River town (May 2024)

South Union Shaker Village, South Union, KY (active 1807-1922): women's quarters in the dwelling house (May 2023)



Santa Fe Trail Tracks, outside Dodge City, KS: The faint wavy lines in the distance mark the tracks of wagons that traveled side by side down this hill in the 1800s (May 2024)

Last Stage from Goldfield (detail), Connie Walker, oil on canvas (Superstition Mountain Museum, Apache Junction, AZ)

The Navajos, Charles M Russell, 1919, oil on canvas (Wickenburg Historical Museum, AZ)

View from our campground in Tortilla Flat, Superstition Mountains, AZ

The town of Tortilla Flat , AZ (population: 6) is the last remaining stagecoach stop on the old Apache Trail

Of all the tales of mysterious happenings that gave the Superstition Mountains their name, the most famous legend concerns a certain Jacob Waltz, known as the Lost Dutchman, who was drawn to the area by the Gold Rush. Actually of German ancestry (Deutsch, not Dutch!) the secretive Waltz hinted to townsfolk that he had discovered a vein of high-grade gold ore, and even produced a nugget or two to back up the claim. In 1891 he took gravely ill, and on his deathbed gave a few clues to the location of his mine and produced a crude map of the site. But to this day, no one has been able to locate the Lost Dutchman Mine in the rattlesnake-infested, cactus-covered Superstition Mountains.

The Dutchman and his Burros, bronze, Superstition Mountains Museum, Apache Junction

How about this mug? Known as the Hermit of the Superstition Mountains, Elisha M. Reavis (1827-96) fought off Apache raiding parties to establish a farm at the site of the only reliable water source in that rugged wilderness. Traveling with his burros and dogs to sell his produce to nearby mining communities and rumored to be both a fearsome gunslinger and a well-read man, Reavis became a legend in his own time. Hikers can still see remnants of his ranch high up in the hills.

A popular place for wedding parties, the chapel at Superstition Mountain Museum was built as a movie prop for Elvis Presley's 1969 western, Charro (his only non-musical movie!)

Goldfield Ghost Town, a reconstructed 1890s mining town on Apache Trail, Apache Junction, AZ (Superstition Mountain in background)


The chapel at Goldfield Ghost Town, Apache Junction

A notorious block of saloons dating back to the 1800s, Whiskey Row in Prescott, AZ puts on a show (Dec. 2023)

When Bob & Laura came to visit us in Prescott they stayed in a 1930s log cabin (Dec. 2023)

Once known as the "wickedest town in the West," at its peak the old copper mining town of Jerome, AZ was was home to 15,000 miners, bootleggers, saloon keepers, gamblers, prostitutes, and assorted scoundrels. It was restored in the 1960s and is now on the National Register of Historic Places. Current population: 600

Located above the largest copper deposit in the United States, the Little Daisy Mine (shaft at lower right) was one of two bonanza mines in Jerome, AZ

Audrey Shaft Headframe hauled 4 million tons of ore out of Jerome's Little Daisy Mine, producing 300,000 tons of copper, 220 tons of silver, and 6 tons of gold



G2 Performance Horses, Scottsdale, AZ: Vaquero-style horsemanship center. As a Harvest Hosts member, we were able to camp on the ranch (Feb. 2024)

Team roping at Rancho Rio, Wickenburg, AZ (Nov. 2023)

Payson, AZ

Just chillin' at Dillon's Western Trails Ranch, Morristown, AZ (Feb. 2024)




Scenes from Lost Dutchman Days Rodeo, Apache Junction, AZ: Calf roping, acrobatic, bareback, and bull riding (Feb. 2024)

Intelligent, sturdy and sure-footed on the trail, adaptable to dry climates, and fierce protectors of farm animals against coyotes and fox, donkeys played a pivotal role in shaping the Old West.

Forever Home Donkey Rescue & Sanctuary, Benson, AZ: Owners John and Tish have been rescuing, rehabilitating, and placing donkeys for 27 years. That's BlackJack, their first rescue from 1997 (Feb. 2024)

Once wild donkeys on Bureau of Land Management federal lands, Rikki and Claire were adopted by a loving couple who call their little farm in Apache Junction "Jackass Junction." We camped here through Harvest Hosts (Nov. 2023)

"Hey, lady, got an apple on you?" Jackass Junction

Western Hotel, built in 1891, Ouray, CO: one of the largest surviving wooden buildings on the Western Slope (Jan. 2024)

"Tiny house, anyone?" Ouray, CO

Headframe of Atlantic Cable Silver Mine, Rico, CO: by 1892, this boom town was the county seat and had a bank, a theater, a mercantile, 2 churches, 23 saloons, and a three-block red-light district. Current population: 200

Mohave Desert Heritage and Cultural Center, Goffs, CA: a collection of old structures and mining antiques (Feb. 2024)

A mainline stop on the Sante Fe Railroad in the 1880s, the town of Goffs built this one-room schoolhouse in 1914 on what was an old wagon route (the Mohave Road), which later became a stretch of the original Route 66. It is now a museum managed by the cultural center.

Wickenburg train station, AZ: The arrival of the Santa Fe Railroad here in 1894 made carriage of gold from the nearby Vulture Mine feasible (Feb. 2024)

Though a conservationist at heart, Teddy Roosevelt knew that water was the key to developing the West. He considered the masonry gravity arch Roosevelt Dam on the Salt River (dedicated 1911) to be one of the greatest achievements of his presidency.

Built in what was once a thriving frontier town, the Pozo Saloon and its old cottonwood tree date to the same year: 1858. A hotel group is currently restoring this historic landmark (Jan. 2024)

Kathy's first crush! Photo on display at Apacheland Movie Ranch Gallery, Superstition Mountain Museum, Apache Junction

There's a little cowboy or cowgirl in all of us, ain't that right? Rodeo exhibit, Sharlot Hall Museum, Prescott, AZ (Dec. 2023)
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